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שאני צריך לסכם על תרבות סקוטית.... דה טרטןןןןןן :]
TARTAN !
אני צריך שזה יהיה 3 עמודים+-
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הנה:
תהנו!
1.
In the past
Tartan is very symbolic of Scotland and has been used by the Scots for hundreds of years, all over most of the world people who see tartan immediately associate it with Scotland.
There is evidence that Celts have used striped and checked material for thousands of years. The Scoti, who settled Western Scotland from 5-6thC onward and eventually gave the whole country their name, are said to have used striped garments to signify rank. One possible derivation of the word Tartan comes from the Irish tarsna - crosswise & Scottish Gaelic tarsuinn - across. The basis of the pattern, dress style and word may date back to the time when the Scots introduced their Gaelic culture into what was to become Scotland. If early Tartan, like the Gaelic language, were used across Scotland in the 10thC, by the 13thC it would have been confined to the Highlands. Lowland Scotland began adopting the language of the northern Angles and Norman social structure from the 12thC.
In 1538 there is a reference to 'Heland Tartan'. A Frenchman at the siege of Haddington in 1537 describes Highlanders who were present as wearing what appears to be Tartan. From 1581 there is a description of 'variegated garments, especially stripes, and their favorite colors are purple and blue'. Poet John Taylor clearly describes the woollen Tartan garments of Highlanders at Braemar in 1618. Martin, a doctor on Skye around 1700, gives the first descriptions of Tartan which imply their significance as regional and the importance to weavers of ensuring that their cloth always has precise local patterns. Martin states that it is possible to tell from a man's plaid where he came from. There is no implication from any of this that specific families or Clans wore their 'own' Tartans - the patterns appeared to be regional.
To finish, we return to the initial point. For all its doubtful pedigree and commercialization, Tartan symbolizes Scotland and Scottish Culture more than anything. And as a born-again Scotland moves into the new millennium, Tartan will continue to play it's central symbolic role.
In the present
Tartan's heritage is both glorious and controversial, but what of its current standing and its future? There is a living military tradition which has ensured that Highland dress and tartan are respected and often revered. There was uproar, for example, amongst the Scottish regiments when the War Office decreed in the Second World War that the kilt was not a suitable campaigning garment. Some soldiers organised protest bonfires and others insisted on taking the kilt with them into action in spite of the ruling. Individuals have worn the kilt into battle in many modern wars, but the last kilted unit, operating as an organised body, was a platoon of the Cameron Highlanders, which fought an heroic rearguard action at Dunkirk in 1940. This occasion, however, ended a tradition of over 1,000 years. With the amalgamation of so many regiments in modern times the supply of ex-army kilts, once the source for many older Boy Scouts, has dried up.
There is continued affection for tartan among Scottish football and rugby supporters, who often flaunt it with immense enthusiasm. There are also growing numbers of pipe bands and Highland dancers, while the kilt is a favourite garment for weddings. It has always been popular dress at musical festivals and ceilidhs, and one senses an increase in the wearing of the kilt for other social occasions. Unfortunately, there is a music-hall tradition that persists among some comedians of mocking the kilt.
One of the biggest problems with Highland dress is the high cost of a kilt and accessories. However the kilt is a comfortable garment, warm in winter and cool in summer, and a good example should last for generations. The golden rule for anyone tempted to wear the kilt is to go ahead and purchase one. Consult a reputable shop or the Scottish Tartans Society and ensure that you are properly measured; the choice of tartan is entirely a matter of individual taste, although it is generally good manners, despite the fact that many clan tartans are nineteenth-century in origin, to select something appropriate. Statements that you may not wear your mother's tartan are untrue. There have often been cases in Scottish history when men and women have attached themselves to a clan or family by choice, and it was not always a question of birth or blood loyalty. The modern man in Highland dress may also wear a Balmoral hat, which is rather like a beret and is generally blue - a link with the famous 'blue bonnets' that were part of the campaigning dress of many Scots, and particularly of Highlanders. Sometimes Balmorals have a diced pattern round the rim. This is a relic of an old accounting system that was taken into the heraldry of the Stewarts or High Stewards of Scotland and became known as 'the checky', from which the word 'exchequer' derives. Scottish policemen also wear this pattern, a symbol of guardianship and protection. The boat-shaped Glengarry hats are of nineteenth-century military origin.
Shirts, jackets and ties are entirely a matter of taste, although tweed jackets (largely green or brown) for daytime wear and black for evening wear, with rather more ornate shirts and accessories, are generally the custom.
In the past, belts were normally made of leather with brass buckles, but now there is a whole variety of designs and materials. Sporrans (the name is the Gaelic for 'purse') were once worn on the hip and had draw strings instead of studs. Now strikingly modern sporrans are produced following old designs, and synthetic materials have replaced seal, goat or deer skin. The kilt pin dates from the nineteenth century, and largely resulted from the desire of Queen Victoria and her senior military staff to have modesty among her soldiers. Underwear beneath the kilt - so often a cause for humour - is a relatively modern development, and in the past men wore nothing. This is still true of several Scottish regiments, apart from some sentries and dancers, on whom the kilt might fly up. Most other people wear shorts or pants, according to personal taste.
Of the other Highland dress accessories, knitted socks are also a fairly recent innovation. In the past, hose were made from the same material as the kilt. The small flashes at each side of the stockings are symbolic of the kind of ribbon-garter that was used in the past and tied with a special knot. Shoes, like socks, are a matter of personal preference. The convention for evening wear, however, is black. The Gaelic for shoe is brog, from which comes the English word 'brogue'. The holes that are often punched in the leather symbolise the holes made in deer-hide footwear to let water out. (The Gaelic words for 'my footwear' are mo chasan, and it has been suggested that Scottish migrants to North America who used this word might have given rise to the Indian word, 'moccasin'.) The small knife tucked into the stocking is called a sgian dubh, or black knife, and was originally an implement for eating or skinning, although nowadays it is mainly symbolic. The adjective 'black' derives from the use of coarse metal, rather than the prized shining metal used for weapons. Some people wear ornamental dirks attached to their belts for evening wear.
It is undoubtedly the case that a Highlander from many centuries ago, should he see the dress of his nineteenth- and twentieth-century descendants, would recognise his own garb. With female dress this is perhaps less likely. Early Highland women wore a longer version of the man's shirt and then had a version of the man's belted plaid, known as the arisaid (earrasaid in Gaelic, and pronounced 'varoosatch'). It was made of tartan and white was generally the predominant colour. The garment reached down to the ground and was fixed at the waist with a belt and fastened with a pin at the breast. There was sufficient loose cloth to pull over the head like a hood in bad weather, and underneath a full petticoat was worn. Occasionally an additional shawl was used. Modern conventions on the use of tartan sashes and plaid-type sashes, or brooches, are largely a matter of taste.
There are now many new tartans, some of which are extremely attractive. For example, there are tartans for some American states and Canadian provinces, for overseas military units and bands, for special anniversaries, for civilian organisations such as the City of Glasgow, even for fire brigades and airlines. The proposed designs for these go before the Scottish Tartans Society, which monitors and registers them, and awards certificates. In addition, the society continues its research into ancient aspects of Highland dress and generally brings much-needed discipline into the whole subject of tartanology.
Finally, there are a few persistent misconceptions which it would be valuable to clarify. For instance, the amount of white worn in so-called dress tartans or Highland dancing tartans is entirely modern and lacks an ancient pedigree, except in its connection with the arisaid. Similarly, the names of some supposedly 'ancient' tartans refer to dyes copying old hues and not to the sett or pattern. Hunting tartans are of nineteenth-century origin, although it is probable that in the more distant past men wore a dark design when hunting. Lastly, it is considered poor taste to wear a chief's tartan unless the use has been sanctioned, the same being true of tartans associated with the Royal Family.
Tartan enthusiasts owe a great debt to a number of modern scholars, particularly Scots like J. Telfer Dunbar, James D. Scarlett, the late Donald Stewart (who pioneered the system of filing tartan samples and pedigrees), the late Captain Stuart Davidson for his pioneering work, Dr Gordon Teall of Teallach, chairman and executive president of the Scottish Tartans Society, for his research on district tartans; also to American Fellows of the Society - J. Charles Thompson, Robert Martin and Philip Smith.
It must be said that a resentment towards kilt-wearing has lingered in modern Scottish society - a hangover from the time of the nineteenth-century injustices, when the kilt was worn by the landowning aristocracy as social garb, or the feeling that the modern kilt was only for the wealthy. Fortunately, this phase is now passing. There is a heartwarming zest of Scots overseas for the kilt and tartan that has a strong and beneficial effect on those who wear the kilt in Scotland. In America, for example, there is a charming custom called 'the kirking of the tartan', which means to have the cloth blessed in church. The American astronaut, Neil Armstrong even took a piece of Armstrong tartan to the moon and back, which shows the depth of feeling for this special and internationally known cloth.
Scottish author, Neil Munro, wrote a poem called 'The Kilt is my Delight', which became the title of a television programme. The kilt can be your delight as well. Bring forrit the tartan!
2.
Introduction
Like a part of group for a culture museum, we have chosen to research about the Scottish's Tartan, which people were wearing in the 16's century, in Europe - Scotland.
The actual patterns worn by the Scottish clans, that each Scottish tartan was present one clan.
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